I’ve been a huge fan of Geno Bernardo, Executive Chef at Nove, since he opened his 52^nd floor, Fantasy Tower restaurant at the Palms a few years back. Geno, a true Jersey Boy, is that rarest of talents, an auto didact, or self taught chef, and he’s all passion and raw talent.

Normally, you’d pay close to $100 per person during the evening, to stare out at the Vegas Valley, watch the lights twinkle off to the north, and party with the animals who frequent Moon, the nightclub upstairs, or the Playboy Club, home province of the 2000-year old man, Hefner.

But now, the boys at the N9Ne Group have rolled out a new concept called High Society, which takes place every Sunday from 1-7 p.m. The idea is simple. Geno has put many of his greatest hits in a buffet which is an absolute steal at $30 per person. Wines are poured from stainless steel kegs provided by Sigma Wine Co.’s six-foot eight Bob Cranston, a legend in his own mind.

And they are excellent wines at $10-$12 a glass, such as a Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier blend for the white, and a hearty house red. In case you care, these kegs are reusable, making the whole thing quite green. I’m told Nove is the first restaurant in Vegas pouring wines this way. Could this become a trend?

Did I mention that the buffet is sublime? Arrive promptly at 1 p.m., and you are greeted by streamers, balloons, and a lighter turnout. The heat turns up as the afternoon goes on, the wines flow, and the girls loosen up. By 6, they are dancing on the table tops.

Me, I’m getting too old for that kind of action, so I focus on the food. A salad bar greets you first, stocked with a Caesar, pasta salad, summer salad, and fruit salad. Adjacent to that is a pizza and panini station. I’d come just to eat this white clam pizza, similar to the one served at the legendary Frank Pepe’s in New Haven, Conn., but the crusty panini are fabulous, especially the one with arugula and prosciutto.

Next to that are salumi and imported cheeses, flanked by raw seafood on ice, such as crab claws and fresh shrimp. The hot section offers the best brisket, sausage and potato hash on the planet, grilled sausages, bacon, and an egg casserole laced with tortilla chips. Should you want frittata, or poached eggs, order them from a cooked to order station.

Later in the afternoon, Geno rolls out his Sunday gravy, which he slow cooks, starting at 7:30 a.m. Picture a rich marinara sauce, and add the best meatballs around, mild Italian sausage, and an impossible portion of tender pork shoulder, in bite sized chunks.

I hope you’ve saved room for dessert. The dessert station has cream puffs, several kinds of cake, black and white cookies, and even freshly baked biscotti. Harry’s Berries of Ventura County provide strawberries, which can be eaten plain, or filled with crème brulee. There is even an enormous bowl of whipped cream, to top off your coffee.

While the eating and drinking is taking place, music is being provided by a deejay. I hadn’t heard any of it before. My scantily clad waitress informed me one of the songs was called “Lazy Sunday,” performed by the group Express. Or was it Excess?

Either way, it doesn’t matter. When it was all over, I had to lie down for the rest of the day, making the song prophetic. If a decadent brunch is your thing, you can’t do any better in this town than High Society.

At Nove, 1-7 p.m., Sundays. The buffet is $30. Wine and spirits, extra.

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