La Cave, Michael Morton’s wine bar at the Wynn Las Vegas, is offering one of the best deals on the Strip for Sunday brunch. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday only, this trendy space is doing an interestingly conceived all-you-can-eat brunch for the fair price of $40.

Drinks are extra, but a clever format makes the additional charge reasonable. For an extra $20, you’ll get bottomless mojitos, Bloody Marys or caipirinhas, which obviously appeals to many of the patrons who sit for hours on La Cave’s patio, some of whom, it appeared, were unable to get up altogether.

La Cave is first and foremost a wine bar, even if Morton refers to it as his “Wine and Food Hideaway”. There is even a little room here called Hideaway. I can never find it, anyway, so I get the point.

Toward the back, there is a bar with Enoteca machines that pour wines in varying quantities, directly from the bottle. Thirty-odd wines are thus available by the taste, half or full glass. There’s lots of wood in here, plus burlap, leather and glass.

The wine list has approximately 250 selections, but since we’re here for brunch, cocktails or maybe champagne, seems more appropriate.

La Cave is ably managed by Jennifer LaSala, a charming, capable hostess, and service is efficient and solicitous. My one complaint is that the servers seem as keen to whisk food away from your table as quickly as they bring it. Relax, boys and girls, relax.

 

Chef Billy DeMarco created the menu, and his food is first rate. He is an alum of First Food and Bar, where he was mentored by Chef Sammy DeMarco, (who, despite sharing the same last name, Sicilian heritage, and New York City roots, is no relation), and also a protégé of Charlie Palmer, master chef and cooking guru.

DeMarco does good flatbreads, a terrific granola parfait, blueberry pancakes, and even serves chorizo and bacon in little paper cones. If you don’t pace yourself, you’ll never make it to the finish line. I almost didn’t myself, and hey, I’m a professional.

You won’t be overwhelmed by the spread, initially. Near the door, by the open kitchen furnished with wood burning pizza ovens, you see a small buffet stocked with items like three bean salad, fresh mozzarella Caprese and the carving station, which featured, on the week I visited, roast leg of lamb with mint jelly.

There’s also a set-up at the bar allowing guests to build their own cocktails, with the bartender’s help, of course. Some 20 brunch items are then circulated on trays around the dining room. You don’t have to get up one time.

Four of us noshed virtually non-stop for the better part of two hours, Among the greatest hits were the best veal short rib hash we’ve ever tasted, terrific breakfast sandwiches with egg, cheese and Canadian bacon, Tater Tots in a Chinese takeout box, and a finely minced fruit salad, composed of pineapple, watermelon and berries.

It seemed as if the food would never stop coming. In fact, it didn’t.

If this brunch catches on, and the smart money says it is going to, it will be offered Saturdays in the near future. Book early, and often.

At Wynn Las Vegas. 770-7000.

 

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