Facing a thicket of cameras in his trademark pinstripes, a man-sized Bombay Gin martini in hand, Oscar Goodman is in his element.
He’s no longer mayor, but he’s still a local celebrity. In his new position as host and eminence grise at his steakhouse/speakeasy Oscar’s, he may finally have achieved a goal that partially eluded him during his long tenure: Overseeing the Downtown renaissance.
This is a heady time for Downtown, with Tony Hsieh and Zappo’s relocating offices nearby. Goodman will keep an office, and be a major presence, with an inner sanctum literally hidden behind Oscar’s bar.
At the media opening on Monday, he told cameras that opening Oscar’s was “a dream come true. People come to Vegas to escape the rigors of daily life. I wanted to create a place for locals to do the same thing.” And so he has.
In fact, he’s created two. Half of Oscar’s, the flashier half under the hotel’s trademark dome, is a plush steakhouse, with the usual suspect appointments from cushy gray leather chairs to retro décor.
To enter, you walk a long hallway lined with photos of Hizzoner with Kings (Don) and Presidents (Obama, W, Clinton and Carter), plus many other celebrity photos. In fact, this is really two restaurants. One side is an Italian restaurant called Simpatico, where the menu runs to old chestnuts such as fried eggplant, chicken Vesuvio and lasagna.
The steak house side will have a menu designed by Chef Jeffrey Martell, the ACF (American Culinary Federation) Chef of the Year for 2011 in Las Vegas. The theme here is “Beef-Booze-Broads”, broads referring to a stable of beautiful hostesses clad in basic black. It will be one non-stop party. Their names, in case you ask, are Antoinette, Cara, Chere’, Bunny, Kristina, Monika, Nikki and Rozlynn.
The steaks here will be aged, (not the broads) and then cooked on a 600-degree grill. Sides will be made from scratch, and include potato latkes and roasted corn brulee, along with the more usual ones like baked potatoes, etc. I was a tad surprised to see Spilotro-style skirt steak (Tony’s dream meal) on this menu, with garlic, red pepper and Ralph’s smashed potatoes. Did Ralph share Tony’s fate?
Goodman keeps kosher, so don’t expect to see him eating Vinnie’s lobster bisque or the double bone pork chop. He might be eating his favorite dish, Oscar Mayor’s “Weiner” Schnitzel, a grilled bone-in veal chop topped with a flurry of radicchio, arugula and endive. I can’t wait.
Incidentally, the bar scene should be lively. There is a 10-seat bar table for large groups, and behind the bar, when he’s not elsewhere, is one of the bright lights from the Downtown bar scene, barkeep Kevin Graham, one of our top local mixologists. Try his killer Sazerac.
Oscar’s has seating for 120, while Simpatico will seat 75. Between now and Dec. 31st, the restaurants are doing preview dinners. Call for information and reservations. No wonder Goodman calls himself “the happiest Mayor on earth.” Correction: I think he means his wife.
At 1 Main Street. 386-2110. Dinner only.
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